Sunday, May 02, 2004

MAY DAY

May Day or International Workers Day has traditionally been the day when workers and activists across the world take to the streets to rally for workers rights. In Britain, as issues have seemingly changed in recent decades such demonstrations have converted into or been branded “anti globalisation” marches. This clearly erroneous brand name (given that if its international mobilization it is an example of globalisation - of resistance) implies that the labour rights side had been forgotten in favour of some new ill defined anti-cause. On the contrary the resistance to economic globalisation, or the broad prescription of neoliberal economic policy resulting in the privatisation of public services and deregulation across the private sector is profoundly about workers rights*. If anything the rights demanded, have been broadened so as to encompass environmental protection, basic human rights and social justice.

But in spite of the growing global justice (or mis termed anti-globalisation) movement in the UK and large numbers turning to the streets on other days, May day itself has become somewhat deflated in recent years. It seems to have lost its significance. I personally wouldn’t put this down to apathy or to a change in fashion and I’m also not morally opposed to destruction of private property for political purposes, if an effective method. In recent years however, violence (admittedly exacurbated by police) and vandalism often carried out by people who the rest of the year have nothing to do with the political movement, I think, has given may day a bad name. As such the majority of activists don’t want to be associated with it. (Just for the record I don’t subscribe to this opt out view either and go to May in the UK with many others of similar conviction to represent for those of us that think theres more to it than kicking in MacDonald’s window with a pair of Nike’s on).

In contrast, May Day here in Colombia is still very important and particularly now at a time when the hard-line neoliberal policies of president Uribe Velez pose ever increasing threats not only public services, the environment (and by implication the majority of the population) but the democratic right of dissent through public protest itself. Yes here it is very important and this year´s May Day Demonstration in Santiago de Cali was the largest ever recorded.

The march began in the Plaza St. Nicholas at around 9am on a day that was already beginning to swelter. Historically, and perhaps contrary to non-Colombian perception, it has been a day of relatively peaceful protest. The police presence was relatively low (though well armed), compared with my memory of last year in London where at times police seemed to outnumber protesters, and old people and children were present which can often have a pacifying effect. The organisation in the sense of grouping of people along the march and corresponding banners etc. was primarily by trades union rather than social movement (as is the current norm in the UK) since here the unions are one of the primary forms of organised resistance, monitoring and defence of both labour and basic human rights.

The march was slow under the searing heat and relatively uneventful. The usual chants castigating government adherence to US policy, and IMF restrictions with criticism of Uribe´s policy of Democratic security branding the president as the terrorist or paramilitary. By the time we got close to the Parque de las Banderas the march was somewhat subdued, thirsty and hot after a slow walk in the sun, chants continued but with little carry on. At the final road crossing before the Parque on Calle 5, Carrera 34 at around 12am the convoy stopped. About 100 had already crossed and were in front of the main line amongst which I was one. We strolled towards the trees to get some shade when shots rang out and people started running. I sheltered behind a bus shelter as tear gas canisters shot into the air and police in large numbers moved in on the main body of demonstrators. Immediately the people on our side of the blockage had rocks in their hands and were hurling them at the police but due to the fragmentation of the march it was also in the direction of our fellow protesters. This immediately made our direction a target for tear gas and more shots tolled as fresh canisters hit the streets. The subdued order of the moments before had converted into chaos and over the loudspeaker that had been set up for speeches organisers desperately called for everyone to fill the plaza for unity and security. A police riot line was moving now in our direction pelted with rocks form the enraged males. From behind them rushed out 5 brave demonstrators with arms in the air to signal to stop throwing rocks, at that moment police from the side rushed the square dispersing the rock throwers. More people entered the square and announcements rang out to remain peaceful, allow the rest of the demonstrators in and for those with any information on injured or detained to come to the front.

In total seventeen people were injured at five distinct locations along the march. Police wearing no identifying numbers or names (in violation of national and international norms) from the special force ESMAD (anti disturbance squadron) employed CS, tear gas, pepper spray and excessive force against demonstrators. In Bogotá and Medellin, also contrary to previous years the marches passed in the same fashion. Peaceful until the very end when police moved in with brutal force.

When the square was full and peace recovered, speeches were followed by entertainment in the form of a traditional dance with music similar to Tango but less tragic and a local radical hip hop group. With the information collected we headed back to the office to write the denunciation report. When done and talking over food, Edgar, a large and battle experienced trade union activist said he was glad that it had happened so as show the people the severity of the social situation. Gabriel was outraged as he had been with his 12 year old son and clearly it had been nothing short of harrowing for both of them. I thought it an interesting comment in view of the paradox that by all appearances (given that the same unprovoked attacks happened across the country) it seemed to be part of a government policy to discredit the protests (similar to the way in which UK May Day has lost credit in UK public opinion) but if Edgar is right it could have the reverse effect. Personally I think the statement is kind of a self fulfilling propechy given the logic that if it hadn’t happened then the situation probably wouldn’t really be that serious. The fact that it did shows that it is so in that he’s right. What stood out to me was the speed of the change from normality to chaos indicating the tensity and fragility of the situation here that can often appear as business as usual in spite of underlying problems. For many (such as those in big business) it is just that.

After sending the report I headed back to San Antonio where the neighbourhood was in full swing of May Day weekend celebrations. There is an “open doors” festival in progress by which as the name suggests the many artists and crafts people that have their workshops and studios in the area open their doors to the public. Many normal homes convert the street outside into bars selling Chicha a fermented corn drink and Guarapo a potent wine type substance made from sugar cane with cloves and cinnamon. The park was packed and music coming from all sides. Very Colombian both in atmosphere, openness, and in the ubiquitous stark contrast between this and the days events.


At eleven o’clock we sat down at the side of the park to have a beer and chat with friends. The police arrived and said it was bedtime and as if by presidential decree it started raining. We went home and drank rum.

Its now Sunday I went to the river Pance today. its only about ten minutes out of town but in place can feel like 100 miles. There’s a nature reserve and hoards of Caleños head there at the weekend to bath in the rivers fast flowing clear waters. It was busy but I found a quiet spot and watched the powerful churning rapids flow over sloid rocks and fragile exquist butterfies fly ove both. It was a welcom relaxation. I’m now in the internet café by the park and the last band is playing on the stage set up for the weekend. A group of about ten young people none over the age of sizteen playing salsa with incredible energy and musical skill. Its raining hard but everyone is dancing. I’m going to join them.


Click to read the original urgent action report of the May Day violence.


*Given that deregulation means the removal of regulations that protect workers rights and or the environment.